| - Personal and Environmental How-to Health Information How-to Reduce Garden and Food Pollution |
| The web address of this page is http://www.green-metroplex.com/factoids/on_health/Gardening.html Page created 11/28/2007 Revised 9/17/2008 Return to Green-Metroplex Home Page . Our Environmental Pledge to you Green Metroplex Service and Sales practices safe and sane battery recycling for the protection of the environment, as a public service. Every part, wire and battery and even the dirt on a used or worn out E-trike is recycled, especially battery materials like cadmium, lithium, lead or acid which are never sent to a solid waste landfill. What we ask of you: We encourage you to only and always charge your E-trike or other electric battery powered devices or vehicles ONLY AT NIGHT, when that practice will actually decrease your Carbon Footprint. We also encourage you to get and use recycling waste containers at home and at work. |
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We love home grown tomatoes! This tip has
removed our need to use toxic pesticides to
control aphids and cut worms while increasing our
yearly production of this healthy and tasty staple
salad fruit. Adequate drainage is the keyword.
.
Buy straw bales bound by hemp or twine.
Arrange the bales in semi-shaded areas such as
patio's or decks. Lay the bales on their sides,
located where they'll get good drainage, so they
won't sour. Cut two pot sized holes in the bales
with a sharp serrated edge saw or knife. Don't cut
the baling twine; leave it to permanently hold the
bale tightly together during your growing year.
.
Remove the cut straw and fill the two holes about
two-thirds full with rich, commercial grade
growing soil or your own organic compost. Lay
potted, young tomato plants on their sides and
gently remove them from the pots they came in.
Place the plants on top of the growing soil in the
two holes in the bale. Kneed the roots and starter
soil into the hole and mix them with the starter
soil. Place a potted, fully flowered Marigold's in
between the two tomato plants and their scent
will run off those pesky bugs without having to
use toxic pesticides. Water normally. Fertilize after
a week to ten days.
removed our need to use toxic pesticides to
control aphids and cut worms while increasing our
yearly production of this healthy and tasty staple
salad fruit. Adequate drainage is the keyword.
.
Buy straw bales bound by hemp or twine.
Arrange the bales in semi-shaded areas such as
patio's or decks. Lay the bales on their sides,
located where they'll get good drainage, so they
won't sour. Cut two pot sized holes in the bales
with a sharp serrated edge saw or knife. Don't cut
the baling twine; leave it to permanently hold the
bale tightly together during your growing year.
.
Remove the cut straw and fill the two holes about
two-thirds full with rich, commercial grade
growing soil or your own organic compost. Lay
potted, young tomato plants on their sides and
gently remove them from the pots they came in.
Place the plants on top of the growing soil in the
two holes in the bale. Kneed the roots and starter
soil into the hole and mix them with the starter
soil. Place a potted, fully flowered Marigold's in
between the two tomato plants and their scent
will run off those pesky bugs without having to
use toxic pesticides. Water normally. Fertilize after
a week to ten days.
| Reduced Pesticide Tip |
We used to control weeds around flowers, bushes and
other decorative plants in our yard by laying down heavy
plastic sheeting around them and then shoveling out cedar
chips on top to cover them over and hide the PVC sheets.
Weeds still came up in places and we are always concerned
about the PVC leaching into the soil and water table
from rain run-off; not a very environmentally friendly gift for
our community neighbors and our heirs over the next 1,000
years during PVC's half-life.
.
We now use sheets of newspapers (6-8 pages deep)
which stops all the weeds cold and allows sprinklers or drip
irrigation watering to spread further than the base of our
decorative plants; as their root spread out, plants flourish with
the additional moisture. Cover the papers with mulch or wood
chips as before.
.
They last several years, but are doubtlessly biodegradable.
Just rake up the over-cover when one starts to see weeds
breaking through and lay down an addition 4-6 sheet
newspaper layer right on top, unless you plan to change the
layout of your decorative plants. In that case shake the dirt
off the wrecked papers; which can go into the recycle
container where they will be happy to use this source of
no-cost pulp, again!
other decorative plants in our yard by laying down heavy
plastic sheeting around them and then shoveling out cedar
chips on top to cover them over and hide the PVC sheets.
Weeds still came up in places and we are always concerned
about the PVC leaching into the soil and water table
from rain run-off; not a very environmentally friendly gift for
our community neighbors and our heirs over the next 1,000
years during PVC's half-life.
.
We now use sheets of newspapers (6-8 pages deep)
which stops all the weeds cold and allows sprinklers or drip
irrigation watering to spread further than the base of our
decorative plants; as their root spread out, plants flourish with
the additional moisture. Cover the papers with mulch or wood
chips as before.
.
They last several years, but are doubtlessly biodegradable.
Just rake up the over-cover when one starts to see weeds
breaking through and lay down an addition 4-6 sheet
newspaper layer right on top, unless you plan to change the
layout of your decorative plants. In that case shake the dirt
off the wrecked papers; which can go into the recycle
container where they will be happy to use this source of
no-cost pulp, again!
| Reduced Plastic Tip |
| Related Links |
| Biocompatible Soap |
Only detergents labeled biocompatible are okay
to use to wash ones clothes then use on ones
plants for owners of grey water irrigation systems
because they are made from linear alcohol
ethoxylate that is not toxic. Biocompatible means
that as the components break down in a grey
water or septic system, they will actually benefit
the environment and provide nutrients for the soil
and plants. Biocompatible soaps are ideal for use in
homes with grey water and septic systems or
backwoods camping and they aid municipal
sewage systems to digest and render sewage
water waste to harmless condition, as well.
.
Biocompatible soaps can also be used to loosen
and soften soil in lawns and around tree roots and
make water "wetter" when used as an additive
during lawn and plant watering; making it
penetrate deeper into the ground during
summertime.
.
An additional benefit of adding a bit of
biocompatible soap to yard water is well known by
some gardeners. Nematodes, snails and other
yard pests can't survive when their slimy coats are
washed off by the soapy water. They'll simply dry
out and then die out and disappear from your
plants and lawns.
Shop for this product at: yourguidetogreen.com
Oasis_Biocompatible_Soap-24-1.html
to use to wash ones clothes then use on ones
plants for owners of grey water irrigation systems
because they are made from linear alcohol
ethoxylate that is not toxic. Biocompatible means
that as the components break down in a grey
water or septic system, they will actually benefit
the environment and provide nutrients for the soil
and plants. Biocompatible soaps are ideal for use in
homes with grey water and septic systems or
backwoods camping and they aid municipal
sewage systems to digest and render sewage
water waste to harmless condition, as well.
.
Biocompatible soaps can also be used to loosen
and soften soil in lawns and around tree roots and
make water "wetter" when used as an additive
during lawn and plant watering; making it
penetrate deeper into the ground during
summertime.
.
An additional benefit of adding a bit of
biocompatible soap to yard water is well known by
some gardeners. Nematodes, snails and other
yard pests can't survive when their slimy coats are
washed off by the soapy water. They'll simply dry
out and then die out and disappear from your
plants and lawns.
Shop for this product at: yourguidetogreen.com
Oasis_Biocompatible_Soap-24-1.html
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This is a new twist to killing fire ant colonies. For those not familiar
with Walter Reeves, he is from the University of Georgia agriculture
department, specializing in home gardening. His television show, 'Gardening
in Georgia', is on each Saturday.
"I know fire ants are picky eaters and any type of poison that is effective
takes seven feeding steps before the queen receives it. Plus, if the bait is
stored in close proximity to any petroleum or fertilizer products they won't
touch it. Contact poisons that are on the market just cause the colony to
move away. A well developed colony can be as deep as 30 feet and spread out
some 20 to 50 feet from the mound center... This was documented by studies
done in the early 60's when they were first sited in South Alabama.
An environmentally friendly cure for fire ants has been announced by Walter
Reeves on his Georgia Gardener radio program. Testimonials that it REALLY
WORKS are coming in.
Simply pour two cups of CLUB SODA (carbonated water) directly in the center
of a fire ant mound. The carbon dioxide in the water is heavier than air and
displaces the oxygen which suffocates the queen and the other ants. The
whole colony will be dead within about two days.
Besides eliminating the ants, club soda leaves no poisonous residue, does
not contaminate the ground water, and does not indiscriminately kill other
insects. It is not harmful to your pets, soaks into the ground. Each mound
must be treated individually and a one liter bottle of club soda will kill 2
to 3 mounds."
with Walter Reeves, he is from the University of Georgia agriculture
department, specializing in home gardening. His television show, 'Gardening
in Georgia', is on each Saturday.
"I know fire ants are picky eaters and any type of poison that is effective
takes seven feeding steps before the queen receives it. Plus, if the bait is
stored in close proximity to any petroleum or fertilizer products they won't
touch it. Contact poisons that are on the market just cause the colony to
move away. A well developed colony can be as deep as 30 feet and spread out
some 20 to 50 feet from the mound center... This was documented by studies
done in the early 60's when they were first sited in South Alabama.
An environmentally friendly cure for fire ants has been announced by Walter
Reeves on his Georgia Gardener radio program. Testimonials that it REALLY
WORKS are coming in.
Simply pour two cups of CLUB SODA (carbonated water) directly in the center
of a fire ant mound. The carbon dioxide in the water is heavier than air and
displaces the oxygen which suffocates the queen and the other ants. The
whole colony will be dead within about two days.
Besides eliminating the ants, club soda leaves no poisonous residue, does
not contaminate the ground water, and does not indiscriminately kill other
insects. It is not harmful to your pets, soaks into the ground. Each mound
must be treated individually and a one liter bottle of club soda will kill 2
to 3 mounds."
| How to Kill Fire Ant Mounds, by Walter Reeves |
